Kagawa Highlights: Ritsurin Garden, Yashima & Marugame Castle

Ritsurin Garden, the Yashima plateau and Marugame Castle are the top sights of Kagawa, Japan’s smallest prefecture, on the island of Shikoku across the Seto Inland Sea from Okayama. Kagawa is best known as the home of sanuki udon, but its capital, Takamatsu, also has one of Japan’s most beautiful gardens, a mountaintop battlefield with sweeping sea views and, a short train ride west, one of the country’s twelve original castle keeps. Takamatsu is less than an hour from Okayama by train, making it an easy addition to a trip along the Shinkansen line. This guide covers the three highlights, practical tips and where to stay in Takamatsu.

1. Ritsurin Garden

Ritsurin Garden in central Takamatsu is often ranked among Japan’s finest landscape gardens, and it is bigger than the famous “three great gardens” that usually get the attention. Created over more than a century by the lords of Takamatsu, it spreads out beneath the green backdrop of Mount Shiun, with six ponds, thirteen artificial hills, arched bridges and around a thousand carefully trained pine trees. Admission is 410 yen, and the garden is open every day of the year from early morning, with hours that change by month (6:30 to 17:00 in November). Do not miss a traditional boat ride with a boatman guide, 620 yen, gliding past pines and bridges, and stop at the Kikugetsu-tei teahouse to enjoy matcha and a sweet while looking over the South Pond. The garden is a 3-minute walk from JR Ritsurin-koen Kitaguchi Station or 10 minutes from Kotoden Ritsurin-koen Station.

2. Yashima

Yashima is a flat-topped lava plateau on the eastern edge of Takamatsu, famous as the site of the Battle of Yashima in 1185, one of the great clashes of the Genpei War between the Taira and Minamoto clans. Today its summit offers some of the best views of the Seto Inland Sea, with Takamatsu port, the islands of Megijima and Ogijima and, on clear days, the mountains of Okayama on the horizon. At the top you will find Yashima-ji, temple number 84 of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage, whose grounds are free to enter, with a treasure museum for 500 yen. Nearby, Yashimaru, a striking modern building with a long curving glass corridor, has a café and a panorama room overlooking the sea. A shuttle bus (200 yen) climbs to the summit about once an hour from Kotoden Yashima Station, about 10 minutes, and JR Yashima Station, about 20 minutes. Sunset views are especially beautiful.

3. Marugame Castle

Marugame Castle, about 25 minutes west of Takamatsu by train, has one of Japan’s twelve original castle keeps that survive from the Edo period. The keep itself is small, but the castle is famous for its towering, gracefully curved stone walls, rising in tiers up the hill and among the most impressive in the country. Heavy rain in July 2018 caused part of the southwest stone walls to collapse, and repairs are ongoing; the city has extended the work to March 2031, so expect some fenced-off areas. The keep is open 9:00 to 16:30 (last entry 16:00) and costs 400 yen, and the climb up the castle hill rewards you with views over the town to the cone-shaped Mount Iino, nicknamed Sanuki Fuji. Marugame is also famous for uchiwa paper fans, producing around 90 percent of Japan’s total; look for workshops and shops near the castle. The castle is a 15-minute walk from JR Marugame Station.

Where to Stay Near Takamatsu

Where to stay: Takamatsu

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Takamatsu is the natural base for exploring Kagawa: JR trains fan out to Marugame and Kotohira, the Kotoden railway serves Ritsurin and Yashima, and ferries leave from the port next to the station for Naoshima, Shodoshima and the other art islands. Staying near JR Takamatsu Station keeps everything within easy reach, while the area around Chuo Park and the Kawaramachi shopping arcades has more restaurants and udon shops.

Luxury

JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu stands right next to JR Takamatsu Station and the ferry terminal, with many rooms looking out over the Seto Inland Sea. It is the most convenient upscale choice for combining Takamatsu with day trips to the islands.

Mid-Range

Dormy Inn Takamatsu Chuo Koenmae Natural Hot Spring offers the natural hot spring baths and comfortable rooms the Dormy Inn chain is known for, near Chuo Park and the shopping arcades. Its central location makes it easy to walk to restaurants and catch buses or trains to Ritsurin Garden.

Budget-Friendly

Toyoko Inn Takamatsu Ekimae provides clean, compact rooms and free breakfast close to JR Takamatsu Station. It is a practical budget base for early trains and ferries.

Quick Tips for Visiting

• Visit Ritsurin Garden early in the morning, when it opens at sunrise hours and the ponds are calm and quiet.
• Add Kotohira-gu (Konpira-san), about an hour from Takamatsu by JR or Kotoden train: it is 785 stone steps to the main shrine and 1,368 to the inner shrine.
• Eat sanuki udon at a self-service shop: order your noodles, add toppings and tempura, pour the broth and pay at the end.
• The Kotoden railway is not covered by the Japan Rail Pass, but JR trains to Marugame, Kotohira and Yashima are.
• Ferries to Naoshima and Shodoshima leave from the port right next to JR Takamatsu Station, so you can combine the city with an island day trip.

Getting there by train: From Tokyo, take the Tokaido and Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama, then the JR Marine Liner rapid train across the Seto Ohashi Bridge to Takamatsu in about 55 minutes; the whole trip takes about four and a half hours on the fastest trains. JR trains continue from Takamatsu to Marugame in about 25 minutes, and the Marine Liner is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. Read our guide to riding trains in Japan, learn how to ride the Shinkansen, and check whether the JR Pass is worth it for your route.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much is Ritsurin Garden?

Admission to Ritsurin Garden is 410 yen for adults. A guided boat ride costs an extra 620 yen, and the garden is open every day of the year.

Is Marugame Castle original?

Yes. Marugame Castle’s keep is one of only twelve original castle keeps in Japan. Part of its stone walls is under repair until March 2031 after a 2018 collapse.

How do you get to Yashima from Takamatsu?

Take the Kotoden or JR train to Yashima Station, then the hourly shuttle bus (200 yen) to the summit.

How do you get to Takamatsu from Okayama?

The JR Marine Liner rapid train runs from Okayama to Takamatsu in about 55 minutes and is covered by the Japan Rail Pass.