Hiraizumi, home to Chusonji Temple and its Golden Hall, the Pure Land garden of Motsuji and the boat rides of nearby Geibikei Gorge, is the most rewarding history stop in Iwate Prefecture. In the 12th century the Northern Fujiwara clan made Hiraizumi a political and cultural capital that rivaled Kyoto, and its temples and gardens were listed together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011. Today it is a quiet, walkable town about two and a half hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen and local train. This guide covers the three highlights, how to fit them into a day, and where to stay in Hiraizumi and neighboring Ichinoseki.
1. Chusonji Temple and the Golden Hall (Konjikido)
Chusonji is the star of Hiraizumi, a mountainside complex of halls and cedar-shaded paths reached by the Tsukimizaka, or “Moon-Viewing Slope,” about a 20-minute walk from Hiraizumi Station. Its treasure is the Konjikido, or Golden Hall, completed in 1124 and covered inside and out in gold leaf, with mother-of-pearl inlay and gold-sprinkled lacquer. The remains of four Fujiwara lords lie beneath its altars, and the hall is a National Treasure, protected inside a larger covering building, so you view it through glass. Adult admission is 1,000 yen and includes the Konjikido, the Sankozo treasure museum, the Sutra Repository and the Old Covered Hall. Hours are 8:30 to 17:00 from March 1 to November 3 and 8:30 to 16:30 the rest of the year. Allow at least two hours, wear comfortable shoes for the slope, and come early to beat tour groups. Autumn colors usually peak from late October to early November.
2. Motsuji Temple and Its Pure Land Garden
Motsuji was founded in 850 by the priest Ennin, and while its great halls were lost long ago, its Pure Land garden around Oizumigaike Pond survives as one of the finest Heian-period gardens in Japan. The garden is designated both a Special Historic Site and a Special Place of Scenic Beauty, and a gentle loop around the pond passes stone arrangements, a stream and the foundation stones of vanished halls, meant to recreate the Buddhist paradise on earth. Motsuji is about a 10-minute walk from Hiraizumi Station, and adult admission is 700 yen. It opens daily from 8:30 to 17:00, closing at 16:30 in winter. Seasonal highlights include the Gokusui no En on the fourth Sunday of May, when poets in Heian court dress compose verses along the winding stream, the iris festival from late June to early July, and bush clover in September. The garden is calm and spacious, a nice contrast to the busier Chusonji.
3. Geibikei Gorge Boat Ride
Geibikei Gorge, in eastern Ichinoseki, is a narrow river canyon lined with limestone cliffs, explored on flat-bottomed wooden boats poled by local boatmen. The round trip takes about 90 minutes, including a short walk at the turnaround point, and on the way back the boatman sings the “Geibi Oiwake” folk song, whose echo off the cliffs is a highlight. At the turnaround, visitors try to toss small “undama” luck stones into a hole in the cliff face, said to grant a wish if the stone goes in. The fare is 1,800 yen for adults and 900 yen for elementary school children, and boats run year-round, with fewer departures in late autumn and winter, when kotatsu boats with heated tables are used. To get there, take the JR Ofunato Line from Ichinoseki Station to Geibikei Station, about 30 minutes, then walk about five minutes. Trains run only every one to two hours, so plan around the timetable.
Where to Stay Near Hiraizumi & Ichinoseki
Where to stay: Hiraizumi & IchinosekiHotel links in this section go to Booking.com. If you book through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Hiraizumi itself has only a handful of small inns and private rentals, so most visitors stay in Ichinoseki, one stop (about eight minutes) south on the JR Tohoku Line. Ichinoseki is also the Shinkansen station and the starting point for Geibikei Gorge, which makes it a practical base for this whole itinerary.
Luxury
KAMENOI HOTEL Ichinoseki is a hot spring hotel in the Genbikei area west of central Ichinoseki, with tatami rooms, an open-air bath, dinner and a buffet breakfast, the most relaxing choice for an onsen night after sightseeing.
Hot spring hotel with tatami rooms and an open-air bath.
Mid-Range
Hotel Matsunoka Ichinoseki is a comfortable city hotel in Ichinoseki with a restaurant serving a buffet breakfast and free WiFi, a good base for day trips to Hiraizumi and Geibikei.
City hotel with a buffet breakfast in Ichinoseki.
Budget-Friendly
Toyoko Inn Ichinoseki Ekimae sits in front of Ichinoseki Station, with simple, reliable rooms that make early trains to Hiraizumi or Geibikei easy.
Simple, reliable rooms in front of the station.
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Quick Tips for Visiting
- Start at Chusonji early in the morning, then walk or take the loop bus to Motsuji in the afternoon.
- The Run Run loop bus links Hiraizumi Station, Motsuji and Chusonji, but it runs on a limited schedule, so check the latest timetable with the Hiraizumi Tourism Association.
- Geibikei trains run only every one to two hours, so plan your Ofunato Line connections before you go.
- Late October to early November is the best time for autumn colors in Hiraizumi.
- Bring cash for temple admissions and small shops, although larger sites may accept cards.
Getting there by train: From Tokyo, the Tohoku Shinkansen reaches Ichinoseki in about two and a half hours; a Yamabiko runs direct, or you can change from a Hayabusa at Sendai. From Ichinoseki, the JR Tohoku Line takes about eight minutes to Hiraizumi. Read our guide to riding trains in Japan, learn how to ride the Shinkansen, and check whether the JR Pass is worth it for your route.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much is admission to Chusonji?
Adult admission is 1,000 yen, which covers the Golden Hall (Konjikido), the Sankozo treasure museum and other halls. It opens 8:30 to 17:00 from March to early November and closes at 16:30 in winter.
Can you see Hiraizumi in one day?
Yes. Chusonji and Motsuji can be seen in a day from Ichinoseki or even from Sendai. Adding Geibikei Gorge makes for a full day, so start early.
How long is the Geibikei Gorge boat ride?
The round trip takes about 90 minutes, including a short walk at the turnaround point. The adult fare is 1,800 yen.
How do you get to Hiraizumi from Tokyo?
Take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Ichinoseki, about two and a half hours, then the JR Tohoku Line to Hiraizumi, about eight minutes.
