Nagano Towns & Day Trips: Karuizawa, Tsumago-juku & Nozawa Onsen

Karuizawa, Tsumago-juku and Nozawa Onsen are three very different towns that show why Nagano Prefecture is so much more than mountains. Karuizawa is a leafy highland resort about an hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen, Tsumago-juku is one of the best-preserved post towns on the old Nakasendo road, and Nozawa Onsen is a hot spring village where locals still look after free public bathhouses. Each makes a great day trip or overnight stop. This guide covers what to see, how to get there, local etiquette and where to stay in Karuizawa.

1. Karuizawa

Karuizawa has been a summer retreat since the late 19th century, when Western missionaries discovered its cool highland climate, and today it is a favorite weekend escape for Tokyo residents. Its forests, mountain air and European-style villas feel very different from the rest of Japan. Start on Old Karuizawa Ginza, a shopping street with bakeries, jam shops and cafes, then walk to the small wooden churches in the woods nearby, including St. Paul’s Catholic Church. Rent a bicycle to reach Kumoba Pond, which is especially lovely in autumn, or take a bus to Shiraito Falls, where water seeps out of a curved rock wall in hundreds of thin streams. Right beside the station, Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza is a large outlet mall with about 240 stores, a good stop on the way home. Karuizawa can be crowded in summer and on autumn weekends, so visit on a weekday if you can. The fastest Hokuriku Shinkansen services from Tokyo take about 1 hour; note that the Kagayaki does not stop at Karuizawa.

2. Tsumago-juku

Tsumago-juku, in the Kiso Valley of southern Nagano, is one of the best-preserved post towns on the Nakasendo, the old inland road that linked Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Walking down its main street feels like stepping back into the Edo period: wooden inns with latticed fronts and deep eaves line the road, and power lines and modern signs are kept out of sight. Locals have long protected the town under a pledge not to sell, rent or destroy its historic buildings, which is why it looks the way it does today. Stop by the Waki-honjin, a former inn for traveling officials that is now a museum, and try gohei-mochi, grilled rice cakes brushed with a sweet nut sauce. Many visitors hike the Nakasendo trail between Magome and Tsumago, about 8 kilometers and 2 to 3 hours; starting in Magome means less uphill. Luggage forwarding between the two towns is available from March 20 through November. Tsumago is about a 1-hour walk, or a short bus or taxi ride, from Nagiso Station on the JR Chuo line.

3. Nozawa Onsen

Nozawa Onsen is a hot spring village in the mountains of northern Nagano, known to skiers worldwide for its snowy slopes and to onsen lovers for its 13 free public bathhouses, called soto-yu. The small wooden bathhouses are maintained by local residents, so treat them with respect: wash before getting in, keep towels out of the water and leave a coin in the donation box if you can. Many of the baths are very hot, so ease in slowly or add a little cold water if others agree. In the center of the village, the steaming Ogama spring is used by locals to boil vegetables and eggs, and it is off-limits to visitors, but you can watch from the side. The narrow lanes, wooden inns and sake shops make Nozawa a pleasant place to wander in any season. In winter, the village is busy with skiers, and on January 15 it hosts the Dosojin Fire Festival, one of Japan’s most dramatic fire festivals. To get there, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Iiyama Station and transfer to a bus to the village.

Where to Stay Near Karuizawa

Where to stay: Karuizawa

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Karuizawa is the most convenient place to stay for this trip if you are traveling from Tokyo. It is on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, so Nagano City and Iiyama, the gateway to Nozawa Onsen, are a short ride away, and the town offers everything from forest resorts to budget hotels near the station. For Tsumago-juku, which is on the opposite side of the prefecture, stay in Tsumago itself, in Magome or in Matsumoto instead.

Luxury

HOSHINOYA Karuizawa is one of Japan’s most celebrated resorts, with villa-style rooms set around a stream and pond in the forest, plus access to the Tombo-no-yu hot spring next door. It is perfect for a splurge.

Mid-Range

Karuizawa Prince Hotel West is a resort hotel in the woods on the south side of Karuizawa Station, close to the Prince Shopping Plaza outlet mall and the ski slopes in winter.

Budget-Friendly

APA Hotel Karuizawa Ekimae Karuizawaso is a good-value hotel near Karuizawa Station, a practical choice if you plan to day-trip by Shinkansen and want to keep costs down.

Quick Tips for Visiting

• Visit Karuizawa on a weekday to avoid summer and autumn weekend crowds.
• Rent a bicycle in Karuizawa; the main sights are spread out but flat.
• Use luggage forwarding for the Magome to Tsumago hike.
• Bring a small towel and coins for Nozawa Onsen’s public baths.
• The Kagayaki Shinkansen does not stop at Karuizawa; take the Asama or Hakutaka.

Getting there by train: The Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo reaches Karuizawa in about 1 hour, and Iiyama, the station for Nozawa Onsen, is farther along the same line beyond Nagano. Tsumago is reached via Nagiso Station on the JR Chuo line between Nagoya and Matsumoto; most travelers ride the Limited Express Shinano to Nakatsugawa and change to a local train. The Shinkansen and JR lines are covered by the JR Pass, but local buses are not. Read our guide to riding trains in Japan, learn how to ride the Shinkansen, and check whether the JR Pass is worth it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to get from Tokyo to Karuizawa?

The fastest Hokuriku Shinkansen trains, the Asama and Hakutaka, take about 1 hour. The Kagayaki does not stop at Karuizawa.

Is Tsumago-juku better than Magome-juku?

Tsumago is quieter and feels more untouched, while Magome has a lively hillside street and more shops. Many visitors see both by walking the 8-kilometer Nakasendo trail between them.

Are the public baths in Nozawa Onsen free?

Yes. Nozawa Onsen’s 13 soto-yu public bathhouses are free to use and are maintained by local residents. A small donation is appreciated, and the water is often very hot.

When is the Nozawa Fire Festival?

The Dosojin Fire Festival is held every year on January 15 in Nozawa Onsen.