Yamagata Landmarks & Hot Springs: Yamadera, Ginzan Onsen & Mogami River

Yamadera, the mountain temple clinging to cliffs above a green valley, Ginzan Onsen, a hot spring village of wooden ryokan along a narrow river, and a boat ride down the Mogami River are the classic highlights of Yamagata Prefecture. Yamagata is in the Tohoku region north of Tokyo and is reached directly by the Yamagata Shinkansen, so all three are realistic stops for first-time visitors who want to see a quieter, more traditional side of Japan. This guide covers each highlight with practical tips, including the visitor rules now used at Ginzan Onsen in winter, and suggests where to stay in Yamagata City.

1. Yamadera (Risshakuji Temple)

Yamadera, officially Risshakuji, was founded in 860 and is one of the most dramatic temples in northern Japan, with small halls perched on rocky ledges high above the valley. From the main hall at the bottom, a path of about 1,015 stone steps climbs through cedar forest to the Okunoin inner sanctuary, passing the Niomon gate and carved rock memorials. Just past the Kaisando hall, the Godaido viewing platform offers the famous view over the valley and the village below. The poet Matsuo Basho visited in 1689 and wrote one of his best-known haiku here, about stillness and the voices of cicadas seeping into the rocks; a stone monument near the main hall marks the spot. The climb takes about an hour round trip at a steady pace. Yamadera Station is about 20 minutes from Yamagata Station on the JR Senzan Line, then a seven-minute walk. Admission is a few hundred yen; check current fees and winter hours before you go.

2. Ginzan Onsen

Ginzan Onsen is a small hot spring village in the mountains of Obanazawa, where three- and four-story wooden ryokan from the late Taisho and early Showa eras line both banks of the Ginzan River. In the evening the lamps come on and the street glows, and in winter, with deep snow on the roofs, it looks like a scene from an old movie. Day visitors can bathe at the Shirogane-yu public bath (500 yen for adults, closed on Wednesdays) and soak their feet in free footbaths along the river. Because the village became extremely crowded, it now limits winter traffic: in the 2025-26 season, day visitors could not drive in from mid-December to mid-March and instead parked outside the village and rode a paid shuttle bus. Rules for winter 2026-27 had not been announced at the time of writing, so check the official Ginzan Onsen website. By public transport, take the Hanagasa bus from JR Oishida Station, about 40 minutes (1,000 yen, cash only).

3. Mogami River Boat Ride

The Mogami River boat ride through the Mogami Gorge is a relaxing way to see Yamagata’s countryside. Wooden boats of the Mogamikyo Basho Line drift about 12 kilometers from Furukuchi Port to Kusanagi in roughly an hour, while the boatmen tell stories and sing local folk songs. Along the way you pass Shiraito Falls, a slender 124-meter waterfall listed among Japan’s 100 best waterfalls, and forested hillsides that turn gold and red in autumn. Basho also traveled down this river on his famous journey and wrote a haiku about its swift summer waters. Boats run year-round unless the weather or river level stops them, and from December to early March heated boats with kotatsu tables make the ride cozy in the snow. The one-way fare is 3,000 yen for adults. Furukuchi Port is about a seven-minute walk from JR Furukuchi Station on the Rikuu West Line, reached via Shinjo, which is on the Yamagata Shinkansen.

Where to Stay in Yamagata

Where to stay: Yamagata

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Yamagata City is the most convenient base for Yamadera, Zao and day trips along the Yamagata Shinkansen. For Ginzan Onsen, the ultimate experience is a night in one of the village’s historic ryokan, but they are small, book up months in advance and are usually reserved directly; the hotels below are easier to book and close to Yamagata Station.

Luxury

Hotel Metropolitan Yamagata is connected to Yamagata Station and is the most polished hotel in the city center, ideal for Shinkansen travelers.

Mid-Range

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Yamagata Ekimae is a highly rated, modern hotel near Yamagata Station with comfortable rooms, a great-value base for Yamadera and Zao.

Budget-Friendly

Toyoko Inn Yamagata-eki Nishi-guchi is a simple, good-value chain hotel by the west exit of Yamagata Station, perfect for early trains.

Quick Tips for Visiting

• Climb Yamadera in the morning, when it is cooler and quieter, and wear shoes with good grip, especially in snow.
• Check the official Ginzan Onsen website for the current winter visitor and shuttle rules before you go.
• The Hanagasa bus to Ginzan Onsen does not accept IC cards, so carry cash.
• Combine the Mogami River boat ride with a stay in Shinjo or a trip toward the Shonai coast.
• Autumn foliage in late October and early November and snow scenes in January and February are the most photogenic seasons.

Getting there by train: From Tokyo, the Tsubasa on the Yamagata Shinkansen reaches Yamagata Station in about two hours and 40 minutes and continues to Oishida (for Ginzan Onsen) and Shinjo (for the Mogami River). Yamadera is about 20 minutes from Yamagata on the JR Senzan Line. Read our guide to riding trains in Japan, learn how to ride the Shinkansen, and check whether the JR Pass is worth it for your route.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many steps are there at Yamadera?

There are about 1,015 stone steps from the main hall to the Okunoin inner sanctuary. The round trip takes about an hour.

Can you visit Ginzan Onsen as a day trip?

Yes, but in winter day visitors cannot drive into the village and must use a paid shuttle from a parking area outside. Check the official website for the current rules.

How long is the Mogami River boat ride?

The ride from Furukuchi Port to Kusanagi covers about 12 kilometers and takes roughly an hour. The one-way adult fare is 3,000 yen.

How do you get to Yamagata from Tokyo?

Take the Tsubasa on the Yamagata Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. It reaches Yamagata in about two hours and 40 minutes.