Zao’s snow monsters, the sulfur-scented hot springs of Zao Onsen and the castle town of Kaminoyama make southern Yamagata Prefecture one of Japan’s best winter escapes. From late December to early March, wind and freezing fog coat the fir trees on Mount Zao in thick layers of ice and snow, creating the strange shapes known as juhyo, or snow monsters, while the village below offers skiing and some of the most acidic hot springs in Japan. Both are under an hour from Yamagata Station, and Kaminoyama is on the Yamagata Shinkansen. This guide covers the three highlights, seasonal tips and where to stay.
1. Zao Snow Monsters (Juhyo)
The snow monsters of Zao are frost-covered Aomori fir trees that grow into towering, ghostly figures as winter winds plaster them with rime ice and snow. They form from about late December to early March, and the easiest way to see them is to ride the Zao Ropeway from Zao Onsen. The Sanroku Line climbs to Juhyo Kogen Station, and the Sancho Line continues to Jizo Sancho Station at 1,661 meters, where the snow monsters stand all around the station and a stone Jizo statue is often buried up to its head in snow. A round trip to the top costs 4,400 yen for adults. On selected winter evenings, the snow monsters are lit up with colored lights and the ropeway runs at night; dates for the 2026-27 season had not been announced at the time of writing. Dress for serious cold and wind at the top, and choose a clear day, as fog can hide the view completely.
2. Zao Onsen Ski Resort and Hot Springs
Zao Onsen is a mountain hot spring village with a history said to stretch back about 1,900 years, and it doubles as one of the largest ski resorts in Tohoku, with runs that wind among the snow monsters. Its strongly acidic, sulfurous water is milky and smells of sulfur, and it is said to be good for the skin. You do not need to stay overnight to try it: the three small public bathhouses, Kawarayu, Kamiyu and Shimoyu, cost 200 yen for adults, paid into an honesty box, and open 6:00 to 22:00 year-round, and there are free footbaths in the village. From spring to late autumn, the Zao Onsen Dairotenburo, a huge open-air bath set along a mountain stream, is a highlight (850 yen for adults). Buses from Yamagata Station reach the Zao Onsen bus terminal in about 35 to 40 minutes for 1,000 yen, running about once an hour.
3. Kaminoyama Castle and Kaminoyama Onsen
Kaminoyama, between Yamagata City and Zao, is an old castle town and post town on the route to Edo, with a hot spring history of about 560 years. Its hilltop castle was first built in 1535; the current three-story keep is a 1982 reconstruction that houses a local history museum with samurai armor, old maps and views over the town toward the Zao mountains. The castle is about a 10- to 15-minute walk from Kaminoyama-Onsen Station, opens 9:00 to 17:15 (last entry 16:45) and is closed on Thursdays. Around town you will find several free footbaths, including one near the castle, perfect for resting tired legs. Kaminoyama Onsen has a relaxed, local feel and is a good alternative base to Zao Onsen, especially if you want easy access to the Shinkansen. It is about 10 minutes by train from Yamagata Station.
Where to Stay Near Zao Onsen
Where to stay: Zao OnsenHotel links in this section go to Orbitz. If you book through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
For the snow monsters and skiing, stay in Zao Onsen itself, where hotels and ryokan are a short walk or shuttle ride from the ropeway and lifts. Winter weekends and holidays fill up early, so reserve well ahead. Kaminoyama Onsen and Yamagata City are good alternatives with easier train access.
Luxury
Takamiya Rurikura Resort is an upscale hot spring resort in Zao Onsen from the long-established Takamiya group, with refined rooms and baths, the most indulgent stay in the village.
Upscale hot spring resort in Zao Onsen.
Mid-Range
Zao International Hotel is a long-running hotel in Zao Onsen near the ski slopes, with hot spring baths, a convenient mid-range base for skiers and snow monster trips.
Hotel with hot spring baths near the slopes.
Budget-Friendly
Meitoya So is a small, well-reviewed ryokan in the village, a good-value way to enjoy Zao’s sulfur springs.
Small, well-reviewed ryokan in the village.
Compare prices before you book
Hotels in Zao Onsen on Orbitz
Compare hotels and ryokan in Zao Onsen near the ropeway and ski slopes.
Check Zao Onsen hotel prices →
Affiliate link — if you book through Orbitz, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Quick Tips for Visiting
- Visit the snow monsters from mid-January to February for the best chance of fully formed juhyo, and choose a clear day.
- Wear waterproof boots, gloves and a hat; temperatures at the top of the ropeway are far colder than in the village.
- Bring a small towel and coins for the Zao Onsen public baths, which use an honesty box.
- Remove silver jewelry before bathing, as the acidic sulfur water can tarnish it.
- Kaminoyama Castle is closed on Thursdays, so plan your visit accordingly.
Getting there by train: From Tokyo, the Tsubasa on the Yamagata Shinkansen reaches Kaminoyama-Onsen Station in about two and a half hours and Yamagata Station about 10 minutes later. Buses to Zao Onsen leave from Yamagata Station. Read our guide to riding trains in Japan, learn how to ride the Shinkansen, and check whether the JR Pass is worth it for your route.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can you see the Zao snow monsters?
The snow monsters form from about late December to early March. Clear days in January and February usually give the best views.
How much is the Zao Ropeway?
A round trip to Jizo Sancho Station at the top costs 4,400 yen for adults.
How do you get to Zao Onsen?
Take a bus from Yamagata Station to the Zao Onsen bus terminal. The ride takes about 35 to 40 minutes and costs 1,000 yen.
Can you visit Zao Onsen hot springs without staying overnight?
Yes. The public bathhouses Kawarayu, Kamiyu and Shimoyu cost 200 yen and open 6:00 to 22:00 year-round.
